Rock climbing training


Rock climbing is one of the fastest growing sports in Taiwan in recent years. Whether it is in the direction of leisure or competition, efficient and scientific training is very important for climbers. Because rock climbing is a combination of skill, strength, and intelligence, it is highly specialized in training. The purpose of this paper is to outline the above three elements in order to clarify the structure and characteristics of the rock climbing training method.

One, one, skill training

(i) Coordination: Rock climbing skills are derived from the effectiveness of limb movement during climbing, that is, the coordination of the body. The importance of coordination lies in the deployment of physical elements such as explosiveness, endurance, and softness in order to move in the most labor-saving way on the rock wall. Because the brain can develop intuition and learn from experience through repeated actions, how to make actions more efficient, the root of coordination lies in establishing a rich "database." The richer the database, the less chance of reaction errors. Therefore, the competition is often not the strongest, but the action is the most efficient, the fastest response, the lowest error rate to win. However, how should this database be established? Intuitive responses depend on the frequency of practice. The more often you practice, the more you can make precise movements. If you can take corrective action without thinking about it, you can reach the peak of your climbing ability. In addition, during normal training, it is necessary to think about and study how to achieve the most labor-saving and most balanced movements, and learn to find the most appropriate mode of action in times of difficulties. In short, rock climbing is a sport that emphasizes a high degree of skill. Do not invest in strength training and ignore the importance of coordination and skills.

(b) Softness training: If coordination is the basis of skills, softness can be said to be the source of coordination. The so-called coordination includes two levels of meaning, one is to determine what is an efficient action, the other is the ability to make the action. The former depends on the establishment of the database, while the latter depends on flexibility training. According to the analysis of sports mechanics, most of rock climbing is based on the principle of “move by three points without moving”. As long as the rock climber can keep the three points except the moving point as an equilateral triangle and make the center of gravity close to the rock face, You can maintain balance and have your weight shared by your feet. In addition, a climber with good flexibility, because of good muscle extensibility, the chance of sports injuries is greatly reduced. In general, softness training can be combined with warm-ups and finishing exercises. Before climbing, you can climb a simple route on the rock wall for about 10 minutes. After the muscles and joints are no longer tight, you can start. The training principles are as follows: Each action is maintained statically for 10 seconds; do not forcefully pressurize after the muscles have been pulled; the tendons have a feeling of being pulled, but are not painful; keep the principle of lightness and slowness while proceeding, and keep breathing deeply; repeat each Action 2-3 times.

(c) Skills learning: A huge database requires nothing but the accumulation of various skills. In principle, skill learning can be divided into two parts: the hand and the foot. The former emphasizes the grasping of different types of points, while the latter emphasizes the accuracy, stability and the function of assisting the balance of the foot. Because of the so-called efficient climbing, more feet are used to assist the body in order to reduce the output of the hand. Therefore, the importance and complexity of foot skill training are higher than the hand skills. First of all, we must first learn to focus on the feet, to feel the skills and strengths needed to use different types of foot. This is followed by learning how to form a right triangle with your legs and keeping your body close to the rock wall. Examples include: drop, throw, leg, frog leg squat, hook toe, hang heel, etc. The special skills to achieve the above two principles. As for the hand skill, since the methods of close, open, extended, pocket, and pinch have a high correlation with power, the focus is on familiarity. Types of grasping and the average development of the various parts of the force, in order to cope with different points, and because of the use of different grasping method to avoid the rapid exhaustion of a single site, thereby achieving the purpose of saving.

Second, strength training

(1) Power training: Explosive power refers to the power required to instantly mobilize a large number of muscles or to take dynamic motions (dyno). Its determinants include both maximum muscle strength and muscle mobilization power. Muscle strength is proportional to the number of muscle fibers and their cross-sectional area. As for muscle mobilization power, it refers to the number of muscle fibers that can be mobilized in one contraction. Maximal muscle strength is a prerequisite for a high-intensity action. The correlation with explosive force is the so-called "contact strenght", which is the time required to produce the maximum muscle strength when touching the handle point. The increase in muscle strength at the touch point depends on the development of maximum mobilization. As for training, the training of maximum muscle strength aims to increase muscle volume to accelerate energy conversion and increase energy storage, so-called muscle hypertrophy training; and the purpose of mobilization ability training is to increase the maximum percentage of muscle fiber contraction. Compared with the "quantity" of muscle hypertrophy training to increase muscle, mobilization training is to increase the maximum muscle strength from the "quality" level. If maximum muscle strength is used to force muscle fiber contraction, the maximum mobilization force can be developed, and the training method is better than the actual climbing with weight training (eg, finger/campus board) for a specific muscle group.

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